according to the " ihon shimeisho ," a commentary of genji monogatari (the tale of the minamoto clan ) from the mid kamakura period , its length was about kosode (a kimono with short sleeves worn as underclothing by the upper classes ) (in other words , the length is close to one ' s height ), made in threefold (with nakabe , a lining cloth attached between the outer material ), and a hitoemon (a single design , diamond shaped design such as ones used on a single layered kimono ) pattern is used on the lining . 鎌倉時代中期の源氏物語注釈書『異本紫明抄』によると小袖ほどの丈(つまり身長すれすれくらい)で、三重(中倍のある)の仕立てで、裏には単文(ひとえもん。単衣につかうような菱文)の綾を用いるという。